Mokokchung
Mokokchung is the cultural center of the Ao people and is economically and politically the most important urban centre in Northern Nagaland. In fact it is the most important urban hub in all of Nagaland after Dimapur and Kohima.Historically, Mokokchung was one of the initial locations in the Naga Hills, where the Assam Rifles, led by Britishers, first established their outposts (then called stockades) in the later part of 19th century. Much of the town initially grew around this post located in the DC Hill. The British administration was then gradually extended eastwards towards the remoter parts of the Naga Hills. Today, Mokokchung is considered to be one of the most beautiful, culturally vibrant and friendly cities of North East India, and of Nagaland in particular.
Longkhum
Longkhum village is located on the highest hill top in Mokokchung district, an hour's drive (17 km) from Mokokchung, just off the road to Kohima. It used to be famous for head hunting in the past and the Nagas believe that it is the resting placed for spirits of the dead en route to paradise. You are expected to come again to Longkhum to collect your spirit which is likely to stay behind. Longkhum, commands lovely views and locals make ethnic handicrafts and handloom products.Near Longkhum is a ridge of stones (called Longlangba or stone bridge) that passes through the Rhododendron woods. It appears to be manmade. It is a path made with stone which makes it convenient to walk through the woods.The forest has small holes in the rocks that were carved into the stones so that spears could be placed in them. These were like warning signs to attackers that they would be killed and their head taken off.
Chuchuyimlang
This mouthful of a name is a pretty village just 20 km from Mokokchung, located on a ridge with sweeping views of the hills and valleys around. The houses are built in traditional Ao Naga style - elevated a little above ground and the back verandahs open out on to the vast panoramic views of the mountain ranges. On top of one the mountains, was an American radar base during the Second World War.Chuchuyimlang has won an award for being one of the cleanest villages in India. Streets are indeed amazingly clean with wonderful displays of flowers in the front of the houses. Every house opens onto a well tended garden, and the people are accustomed to visitors and welcome a chat.
The central part of an Ao home is a hearth, which is almost always lit up. This is the area for people to gather, do the household chores and chat. Clothes and grains are still stored in large bamboo baskets. The pig, which is an integral part of Naga cuisine, is always kept in clean enclosures behind the houses and not allowed to roam wild as in most other places.
What can be called the town centre, is a street junction where a Morung (dormitory for young men) and the log-drum which announces any major happening in the village and was also used to call villagers to arms in case of invasions. A small museum here shows the typical dress and lifestyle of the Ao Nagas and is worth a visit.
A leisurely visit to this village is highly recommended. For us, it was a highlight to be here and to meet villagers in their own homes.
